Brazil travel experience

Brazil is known as a tourist paradise – saying so is not exaggerating when you can once immerse yourself in the bustling, jubilant festival here, meet active, cheerful Brazilian people, visit these scenic spots, long-lying hotspots on the beach, etc.

Some general information

Brazilian full name is the Brazilian federal republic. Brazil’s official capital is Brazilia. The largest city is Sao Paulo. Geographical position is the largest country in South America and has a common border with every South American country except Chile and Ecuador, divided into two regions: Brazil’s highland and Brazil’s Amazon River in the North.

Being a Portuguese colony within 3 centuries, the language, culture, architecture and cultural life are mainly influenced by the country of Portugal. This is the only Portuguese-speaking country in America, so it has turned this language into one of its own national characteristics. The Brazilian is mainly Christian. It is also the country with the largest Christian community in the world. In addition, as a multiracial country with many cultural colors, Brazil is also influenced by many other peoples.

Native Americans have an influence on Brazilian vocabulary and cuisine, while African-American blacks, who were brought to Brazil as slaves before, have an important influence in music and dance moves of this country. In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the influx of immigrants from Italy, Germany, Spain, Japan, the Middle East came to Brazil and established large communities living together in cities, creating background of different unique imprints and focus mainly in southern Brazil.

When should you travel to Brazil?

The average temperature in Brazil is about 25 degrees Celsius, quite pleasant, high humidity. However, in the hot summer, the temperature may rise to 40 degrees C. Because of the southern hemisphere, the seasons will be opposite to the northern hemisphere – the summer will fall in December – April and winter in May -November.

What are the interesting things about Venice Brazil?

Founded in 1537, the city of Recife, the capital of Pernambuco state, Northeast Brazil is a stop on the Brazilian tourist map nicknamed “Venice Brazil”.

The neighborhood of Santo Antônio belongs to Recife Antigo, one of the three islands that make up the center of Recife and the first Portuguese settlement in the early 16th century.

Located on two main islands and many small islands, Recife is connected by 49 bridges, of which the oldest bridge dates from 1644. Most of the city’s bridges are built from the Dutch colonial era.

The Capiraribe and Jaguaribe rivers split the neighborhoods in the center of Recife, and this gave the city the “Venice Brazil” nickname.

brazil

One of the most popular types of tourist attractions in Recife is the ships that make visitors crept between wild mangrove forests and canals intermingling with streets.

Recife, the city of water and coral reefs, is one of Brazil’s vibrant and attractive destinations. Along with the historic quarter adorned with many elegant buildings are vestiges of a time of glorious past, the system of entangled waterways leading to the neighborhoods, attractions, etc. made a difference for Recife.

In the center of Recife Antigo, opposite the Sao Pedro dos Clerigos church, the plaza always echoes frevo, traditional art with fast and strong rhythms combining different genres of music and dances. of Brazil.

This place is the weekend rendezvous of Recife residents and many artists also go to the old town to find inspiration.

Don’t forget to visit Bom Jesus, one of the oldest and most characteristic streets in the old town of Recife, with sprawling foyer huts and often holding happy markets.

On Aurora Road, you will be amazed at the beautiful row of houses overlooking the Capibaribe canal, discover Forte das Cinco Pontas fort or craft art workshop in an old prison.

If you have a chance, remember to explore this stunning place!

 

 

 

 

 

5 must-visit places when traveling to Brazil

Each region along Brazil has its own unique landscape, creating a common diversity in the overall nature of this place. Below are five must-visit places when you come to Brazil.

City of Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro is one of Brazil’s most vibrant cities. Thanks to its characteristic tropical climate, it is famous for its long white sand beaches, diverse vegetation in the Tijuca National Park, the hills around Guanabara Bay, etc. Especially, the famous Christ the Redeemer statue is considered a symbol of this city. This statue was built between 1922 and 1931, designed according to Art Deco school with a height of 30m, placed on a pedestal 8m high, the armrest of the statue is 28m and weighs 635 tons.

Sao Paulo

Sao Paulo is a diverse city with more than 100 different ethnic groups living together and is the cradle of culture and cuisine of Samba. Every year, there are about 90,000 large and small events in many fields including art, business, fashion, etc. In which, the most famous is the Sao Paulo Art Festival or the Masquerade Festival, Week Sao Paulo fashion, March parade for Jesus, etc.

brazil

Ouro Preto

Ouro Preto city was once a colonial town founded in the late 17th century. It has a well-preserved Portuguese colonial architecture. Modern buildings that want to build must adhere to standards to maintain the city’s history.

Salvador

Salvador is a seaside city and the capital of Bahia state. The atmosphere is always lively with music stages and bustling beaches. It also has quiet, enclosed bays suitable for swimming, diving, and sailing; or bays full of wind and strong waves, which are ideal for surfers.

Fernando de Noronha

Fernando de Noronha is a beautiful archipelago located off the northeast coast of Brazil. It is famous for pristine beaches, green nature, and wildlife. Traveling to Brazil, do not forget to visit this archipelago so you can immerse yourself in the clear blue water and participate in scuba diving activities to watch the ocean world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Travel Rio de Janeiro – the ancient capital of Brazil

From the airport to the city center you can use a taxi or subway. For convenience, you should use the subway. Because traffic jams in Rio de Janeiro are very serious, taxi prices are expensive, while the subway system is very safe, clean and fast. Especially, the fare for a round trip is very cheap, about 3.2 reais (about 2$).

In addition, when traveling to tourist attractions and famous places in Rio de Janeiro, you can use buses, bicycles, motorbikes, long-distance taxis or kombi (a small truck). And best of all, for a destination near the city center, you should ride a bicycle, in Rio de Janeiro there are more than 60 bike rental stations so you don’t have to worry about where to rent a bike. As for remote destinations, it is recommended to use kombi, because of the bus, because the kombi move faster but cost as the same bus.

Experience booking and renting hotel rooms when traveling to Rio de Janeiro

One of Rio de Janeiro’s travel experiences, cheap, economical and safe Brazil is to book a hotel as soon as possible. Also, if you first travel to Rio de Janeiro, you should book online or contact a travel agent to ask them to book a room for you.
Depending on the needs, financial conditions and travel schedules you choose for yourself a hotel, motel as you like. If you have a lot of luxury, you can choose from 4 – 5 star luxury hotels such as Novotel Rio De Janeiro Santos Dumont, Hotel Fasano Rio de Janeiro, Belmond Copacabana Palace … It has beautiful architecture, also near the beach, high-class swimming pool, modern facilities, attractive resort services, … will definitely help you have a relaxing moment and interesting experiences when traveling.

If you have a moderate budget, then mid-range 2 – 3 star hotels are a great suggestion for you. These hotels usually cost between 100-200$ / night. All are fully equipped and th resort services, serving free breakfast, including single, double and collective rooms for you to choose from. In particular, there are a number of hotels near the sea and primeval forests, … suitable for you to experience both forest and sea tourism in Rio de Janeiro. Some of the high rated mid-range hotels: Arpoador Inn Hotel, Angrense Hotel, Hotel Fazenda Sitio Nosso Paraíso ….

Above are the experiences and advice on travel, sightseeing, exploring Rio de Janeiro, cheap, self-sufficient, convenient and fun in Brazil.

What should you buy when visiting Brazil?

Havaianas


Havaianas is the brand name of the world famous flip-flops and Brazil is their father. Inspired by ancient Egyptian sandals, Japanese and Greeks, the Alpagatas group brought this simple design to the Brazilian market from 1962 and immediately received the affection of many people thanks to simplicity and convenience.

Since then Havaianas has become a unique Brazilian souvenir that everyone wants to bring back. Visitors can buy sandals Havaianas from Brazilian shop systems, with many eye-catching decorations.

Gemstone


As an expensive gift and surely everyone likes it, Brazil is really an ideal place if tourists intend to buy gems as a gift. Great beautiful gems with good quality can be found all over Brazil, but Rio is still the best suggestion with gems like Esperssartita, Tourmaline, Ametist, Greengold, quartz, Topaz and diamonds.

Cachaça


Cachaca is also a gift you should bring from Brazil, this is a very popular cocktail in Brazil, made from cachaca rum, lemon and sugar. Previously Cachaca was only used in restaurants or bars but now it is available in most Brazilian families. You can also buy Brazilian travel as a gift. However, the taste will not be equal to the directly prepared cocktail glasses.
Granado Pharmácias Soap


Especially loved by girls, Granado Pharmacias soap is a very famous product with eye-catching appearance. They are put in small bags with a mild scent. Granado Pharmácias also produces girls’ soap with sparkling, attractive soap bars, remember to buy it in your trip!
Moqueca Pot
A unique gift for you to bring back- Moqueca Pot is the name of a popular clay pot in Brazil, made from clay and ingredients of a special plant. The clay after being dried is then applied with external resin to increase water holding capacity. Moqueca Pot is often used to store fish or cook seafood. The reason this pot became famous and was included in the list of souvenirs you can buy in Brazil is because the cooked food with this pot has a better taste than other cooking methods.

Everything about Brazilian culture you haven’t known

– Cultural communication

Despite the strong influence of European culture, the Brazilians have a more warm and sincere behavior. When meeting each other apart from handshakes, people can easily touch their shoulders, hug and kiss each other’s cheeks. However, when they were strangers, they only rewarded and shook hands lightly.

– Vocative

People often use the name to call. For older people with high power, “Senhor” will be added to the name. They always appreciate friendliness, fun and rarely express different opinions when disagreeing, and rarely argue.
– Going out eating

Brazilians can invite to eat when they first meet, the owners and guests will sit facing each other and toasts. The expression of unrestrained drinking when new to meals is often not appreciated.

The Brazilian style also has a common characteristic of Westerners, when they meet each other, always make sure they are on time. Despite being invited, equal money sharing is the best when going out together, avoiding paying money for the meal will make Brazilian friends have a wrong view of you.

If you meet on the street, you should not call out loud, but just wave your hand. The gestures like “OK” by hand are considered rude in Brazil, while the gesture of holding hands and giving thumbs up between the point finger and the ring finger is said to be good luck. This is a strange thing and it should be noted when done in Brazil if you don’t want to be considered rude.

– Costume culture

Brazilian national costumes are quite colorful and usually only present during festivals. In everyday life Brazilians dress in casual clothes, sometimes quite cool because the weather here is very hot. But in the work clothes are very discreet, upholding politeness.

– Giving gifts

When you meet for the first time, you should not give gifts, then, if you want them to do something for you, you can give gifts. The gifts just need to express the intention, the desire to please will be more appropriate.

Day Tripping at Tijuca Forest – Rio de Janeiro: another day at the office

On the top of Pico da tijuca - Rio de Janeiro

On the top of Pico da Tijuca. Sweating like a horse in almost 40°c temperatures, but no complaining from any of us 🙂

Rio de Janeiro was basking under a perfect summer day and although this time of the year most people come to the Cidade Maravilhosa to enjoy the Carnaval, two Dutch girls asked me to take them for a walk on the green side of Rio de Janeiro… the Tijuca Forest. No need to say I was more than keen… 

I picked the girls (Monique and Annette) up at Rio Hostel in Santa Teresa around 7.30 in the morning and we started the 20 km ride to the Tijuca Forest. Because of the Carnaval festivities, the police had blocked some of the streets around the Sambódromo, where the garbage left by the last “blocos de carnaval” gave the place a deserted look.

Before reaching the parking space from where the hiking trail to the Pico da Tijuca starts, we made a brief stop at the Cascatinha waterfall, considered the most beautiful one of the park.

First stop in the Tijuca Park: The Cascatinha Waterfall

Our first hike for the day was the Pico da Tijuca, a 2,5 km walk to the 1.012m high summit of the highest mountain in the Tijuca Forest. The trail winds through sometimes dense forest, but is very well indicated and maintained. The Pico da Tijuca offers an awesome view of the center and north zones of Rio. On a clear day, like yesterday, it’s possible to see the Serra dos Órgãos with the “Dedo de Deus” (Finger of God) located 50km north of Rio.

Monique and Annette climbing up to the Pico da Tijuca. Jungle trail in the middle of the city.

Almost on the top of Pico da Tijuca, climbing the 117 steps that were carved out of the rock-face to accommodate the Belgian king Albert on his visit in 1921

Next stop before lunch, was the “Vista Chinesa”, which derives its name from the chinese style pavilion where tourists can find some shade while enjoying another privileged view of the marvelous city.

The Chinese “pagoda” style pavilion at the Vista Chinesa viewpoint

The view over Rio de Janeiro from Vista Chinesa with Christ the Redeemer to the left, overlooking the Lagoa Rodrigo Freitas and the morro do Cantagálo in the middle and the Sugar Loaf in the background.

The Vista Chinesa is only one of several viewpoints scattered all across the Tijuca Forest, each one offering another breathtaking view of Rio de Janeiro from a different angle, showcasing some of the city’s most famous attractions like Christ the Redeemer, Sugar Loaf, Lagoa, Dois Irmãos, Pedra da Gávea and Rocinha.

Continuing our tour of the Tijuca Forest, we went on in the direction of the coast, heading for the hanggliding ramp of Sáo Conrado, where you can watch people of all walks of life take the plunge into the lush green scenery of the forest.

Always special to see hang-gliders take off. This is must definitely be the closest thing to being a bird…

Watching the hanggliders do their stuff is something I could do for hours, but we had another hike on our list. The Pedra Bonita trail is only 1.2 km long, considered “medium difficulty” and is one of my favorite spots in Rio.

To our disappointment, the guard at the entrance said that we couldn’t go up because of a kidnapping that had occurred at the Pedra da Gávea. The police were still searching for the kidnappers, who were supposedly armed and hiding somewhere in the forest between Pedra da Gávea and Pedra Bonita.

More people arrived at the entrance who wanted to do the trail. They had heard that the search party had ended and Pedra Bonita would be safe, after which the guard allowed us to go ahead.

Monique and Annette on top of Pedra Bonita. In the background the silhouette of the Pedra Branca massive. Rio’s other (and biggest) Urban forest.

Catching the last rays of a perfect summer’s day on top of pedra bonita with the lagoas of Barra de Tijuca and the sheer endless beach of Recreio das Bandeirantes in the backdrop.

Pedra Bonita was the perfect end to a fantastic day (especially because there was no sign of any kidnappers). As the sun was slowly setting in the west, we sat down for a while on the granite mountain surface, which was still hot from a day of Brazilian sun, and tried to take it all in.

Another Brazilian-Dutch couple joined us and we talked about how Rio de Janeiro was definitely a unique place, which would at least take a year to fully discover.

Giving the Brazilian-Dutch couple a ride to Copacabana, I returned Monique and Annette to their hostel after an 11 hour tour of the Tijuca Forest. I’m sure they will remember this day, at least until the pain in their legs and other body parts has worn off :).

I still had another 120 km ahead of me to get back home, where I arrived around 9 pm but for a day like this I would get out of bed at 4.30 am any day, even on a Sunday. I guess you could say that for me, this was just another day at the office, but people, WHAT an amazing office it is.

Give me a call next time you’re in Rio and I’ll show you around so you can see for yourself.

Spotting Carcará Eagles in the Serra da Mantiqueira preserve – Rio de Janeiro

On the way back from an attempt to hike up the Pedra Selada in the Serra da Mantiqueira and ended up spotting a couple of Carcará eagles.

one of the dirt roads winding through the Serra da Mantiqueira preserve

It looked like it would be a sunny day, and we set out from Volta Redonda around 10.30 and by 11.00 we were already riding through the foothills of the Mantiqueira mountains. When we got to the place where the trail starts, it was totally deserted and that was strange, considering that it was a Saturday in the touristic high season in Brazil. We figured that most people probably were afraid that it would rain. About 1 km into the trail it became clear why there was nobody else there. The trail was totally washed away by a landslide and getting up there would be a challenge that I would have gladly taken on by myself, but I saw in the look on my partner’s face that this hiking trip was ending right there. Disappointed, we went down again, and decided to take the rest of the afternoon to ride a loop through the area and enjoy some of the peace and quiet. At one point, we saw two Carcará eagles on the road, enjoying a meal of some kind. Of course the birds took off when we got too close, but landed in a pine tree nearby, giving me an opportunity to shoot some pictures. [tribulant_slideshow post_id=”24208″]

See the eagles in the pine trees?

A little closer: not one but two Carcará eagles, which is quite rare

And a close up. These are really impressive birds

The Carcará’s meal: an ubfortunate black eared possum (Gambá de orelho preto)

Hope you enjoyed this (i know the last picture wasn’t very tasteful, but that also is part of nature, right?)

Pedra Branca, Rio de Janeiro – The World’s Biggest Urban Forest

Areal view of the Pedra Branca State Park, a 125km² section of Atlantic Rainforest in the west zone of Rio de Janeiro (Photo: Rede Globo)

The Pedra Branca Massive is with its 12 hectares of rain forest clad mountains currently the biggest urban forest in the world and one of the best places for experienced hikers in the city of Rio de Janeiro.

“I looked at Mark and said: “Man, sorry, but I did it… I deleted the track…” None of us really panicked, but we both knew that it wasn’t going to be easy to find our way back through this dense wilderness…”

When travel writer and photojournalist Mark Eveleigh asked me if I had some trekking ideas for hikes close to Rio de Janeiro, I first took him on a tour around the Tijuca national park, which has good infrastructure and a few great hikes for everyone’s liking.

So what about Pedra Branca forest?“, was his next question… I had to admit that I hadn’t checked that one out yet, but after some online research, I found out that the park had some very interesting hiking possibilities, the toughest of which is a 8,5 km hike to the “Pico da Pedra Branca”, the highest point of the park, and with 1.025m also the highest point of the entire City of Rio de Janeiro.

I thought that this was a great way to check the place out and as I expected, Mark was totally on board with the idea

The Pedra Branca State Park

Few people know that the city of Rio de Janeiro is home to the two biggest urban forests in the world. The Tijuca Forest used to be the biggest one for a long time, until expansion of the city’s territory led to the annexation of some of the neighborhoods west of the Pedra Branca Massive like Campo Grande and Santa Cruz. From then on, Pedra Branca became the biggest urban forest in the world.

However… Tijuca forest still has the title of biggest man-planted forest.

With its 125 km², Pedra Branca is a section of Atlantic rain forest, almost three times the size of the Tijuca forest. Just like the Tijuca forest it is a rugged, mountainous area with dense tropical vegetation and peaks up to 1025 m. Its “ruggedness” and steep slopes saved this area (as well as about 100.000km² in other areas all over Brazil) from becoming farming or cattle land.

The Hike to Pedra Branca peak…

I had to leave Volta Redonda around 3.30 am and drive about 120 km to pick up Mark at 7.00 am in Ipanema. From Ipanema it is another 40 km to the east entrance of the park in Jacarépagua.

In a cabin at the entrance, there are two guards and you need to register your name and ID and tell them where in the park you are intending to go. When I said that we were going to the Pico da Pedra Branca, the guards looked at us and said that we were sure going to return with scratched up legs. According to them, the trail was very “fechado”, meaning that it was overgrown with vegetation and barely visible at some places.

The Casa Amarela. somewhere halfway up the Pico da Pedra Branca trail (photo: clubedosavontureiros.com)

They also told us that, different from the Tijuca forest, the trails at Pedra Branca have no indications, apart from a few arrows carved in trees. This sounded like it could turn out to be a real adventure hike.

I had brought my Garmin 60GSx, which is perfect for this kind of situation. I would record our progress, and when in doubt we could just trackback, so even if we wouldn’t be able to find the way to the top (yeah, right…), getting back would never be a problem.

I activated the GPS to start recording, and after a few last pointers from the guards we took off. Pretty soon the trail became confusing. We were supposed to cross the river somewhere, but there were several tracks leading to the river, and none of them seemed to continue on the other side.

After some backtracking, we eventually found the crossing and the trail started to climb steadily from there.To make up for the lost time, we kept going at a fairly fast pace, even uphill.

This was a very different hike than the one in Tijuca National Park. The guards were right. There was no signalization and the trail was quite hard to find sometimes. We had to look for signs like branches that were cut off, that indicated where the trail had been cleared at one point. Also, November is springtime in Brazil, meaning that the vegetation is growing quickly and the trail closes up faster than the people can keep it open.

Another big difference with the pico da Tijuca hike, was that this trail starts almost at sea-level, while the Tijuca trail starts at an altitude of almost 700m. The Tijuca trail is also a lot shorter. So, while Tijuca is a fairly easy 3 km hike on a trail that is well indicated and maintained, covering a difference in altitude of about 350m, the Pedra Branca trail is a 8.5km of dense jungle, with close to no indications climbing about 1000m.

Needless to say that Pedra Branca is not for the average person. You have to be in good physical condition and  If you want to do this hike without a local guide, you better have some experience in finding your way using your orientation skills… as we would find out later that day

Fauna at Pedra Branca: Snakes and stuff…

Making our way through the dense vegetation, we didn’t see a lot of animals, besides birds and butterflies, but we were able to tell there were animals, probably Coatí and Porco do Mato (Peccary) through all the noises we heard all around us… and the animal droppings we found in lots of places along the trail.

At a given moment, I heard a ruffle a few meters in front of me and I saw a green snake slithering from right to left across the trail, disappearing in the thick growth.

These Green snakes (or Cobra Cipó) are considered nonpoisonous, but in reality they posses a strong poison. However,  their non-aggressive nature (they usually flee very quickly) and the fact that the fangs are located in the back of their mouth result in very low accident statistic.

Of course, the Atlantic Rainforest is known to be home to a few other species, like the Jararaca (pit-viper), the coral snake and the Surucucu (Bushmaster) and these guys are really dangerous…

Rattlesnakes (Cascavel) are also found in Brazil, but they live in dryer areas more to the north…

You should always be aware of the fact that, no matter how beautiful the surroundings, there are also some real dangers out there. Always check the place where you’re going to sit, or your boots before putting them on… Spiders, scorpions and ants like to crawl in there…Don’t put your hand in a hole in the ground, be careful when climbing trees etc… with a little caution and common sense you can prevent your great hike from turning into a nightmare in a heartbeat

I guess you can understand that I’m always kind of dumbfounded to see people (usually Brazilians) in flip-flops and beach attire hopping around in these jungle environments.

Ok… so far the Biology class 

Casa Amarela…

The Casa Amarela. somewhere halfway up the Pico da Pedra Branca trail (photo: clubedosavontureiros.com)

There was a guy -apparently living there – with a bunch of dogs. It was not immediately clear what his role was, but I guess he is some kind of caretaker of the Casa Amarela… we chatted for a while, had a few bananas and were on our way again. It was there and then that I realized that I had left my camera in the car… Damn!One of the way-points (actually, the only one), somewhere halfway the trail to the top, is the “Casa Amarela”, a building that was once the main house of a “sitio” called Santa Barbara. (sitio = small farm – bigger than a Chacara, but smaller than a Fazenda). The fact that we arrived there meant that we were on the right track… Yey!

The guy told us that it would be about one more hour walking to the top. He also said that from here the trail would become even steeper… which sounded fine to us. :)

There was a barbed wire fence going up the slope, which made it easy to follow, and after a while we reached the only clearing of the whole trail where you can get a glimpse of the surrounding landscape. This is very much a hike for people who want to enjoy the time in the forest and don’t care so much about the visual aspect.

The only clearing during the 8,5km trail to the Pico da Pedra Branca presenting a photo opportunity (photo: http://www.clubedosavontureiros.com)

We didn’t have a lot of trouble following the trail from the Casa Amarela, but at one point we reached a T-section, where we initially took a left, but quickly realized that this was not the right direction. So we tried the other way, until coming upon a little wattle and daub hut in the forest, surrounded by banana trees.A little further the path started to go down and it continued to do so for quite some time, so after having climbed almost 800m, you go down again, losing 100m, so if you were glad that you “only” had 200m to climb, make that 300m…

We checked out the place to see if there was someone (apart from the donkey that was going about his business of grazing quietly) to ask the way, but the place was deserted. We went back and eventually Mark discovered the trail… We had walked right passed it without even noticing. Another indication of how easy it is to get lost in these forests.

The Top…

This was the only way to get up the boulder and see something of the surrounding landscape… Photo: Mark Eveleigh – thewideangle.com

If you expect an easy overview of the surrounding scenery, you’re in for another surprise. The vegetation is so dense up there, that the only place you can see something is on top of the boulder, and of course there’s no ladder After another 20 minutes of steep climbing and crawling over and under fallen trees and bamboo, we found the top, which is clearly marked with a 3m high boulder that looks like it has been carefully placed there to make this peak a few meters higher than the Pico da Tijuca…

Luckily there’s enough bamboo around and that’s how we were able to get on top of the boulder where Mark could take a few photos.

It just was too easy to be real. Something just HAD to go wrong…

This was probably the moment where I told Mark that I accidently erased all the GPS ‘s data… Photo: Mark Eveleigh – thewideangle.com

During the hike to the top, I had noticed that I hadn’t cleared my previous data in the GPS, so I had no correct idea of the distance that we had already walked. At one point, Mark mentioned to “reset” the data in the GPS once we would reach the top and then the GPS would record the correct distance as we would backtrack down the mountain… mmm… good idea.

I saved the track and cleared the recorded data, but the numbers were still not reset to zero. I thought I had done something wrong and repeated the procedure… this time I saw all zero’s. Ok, we were set and ready to go!!

First, we sat down for about 15 minutes to have lunch (more bananas :)) before setting out to start the descent… which would not be a walk in the park either… Some sections were really steep to climb up, so descending these sections would be a tough cookie on calves, shins and knees.

I wanted to load up the saved track into the GPS to start backtracking, but to my surprise, the track was no longer in the database… WTF?? I checked again, nothing… restarted the GPS… nothing… Ok, this was not very good news. Mark had even said at one point to make sure I would not delete the track, and I had reset the GPS data before with no problems, but somehow I had managed to delete EVERYTHING… Saved tracks, routes, waypoints… the GPS was as empty as the Greek treasury ….

I looked at Mark and said: “Man, sorry, but I did it… I deleted the track…” None of us really panicked, but we both knew that it wasn’t going to be easy to find our way back through this dense wilderness… We sized up the situation and concluded that it should be possible to find “a” way out, considering we still had about 6 hours of daylight left. Plan B would be to spend the night in the small hut that we found earlier… I wasn’t looking forward to plan B, that’s for sure 

Finding the way out of the Pedra Branca forest…

Ok, so the new challenge of the day was to get back down from the mountain in one piece without GPS and only a vague idea of how to go about it… Swell

The first part was easy enough, and soon we were back at the T-section I mentioned earlier… We knew we had to go left here and climb about 100m (in altitude… not distance)  to get back to the clearing. Well, it didn’t work out that way. Somehow we found ourselves coming back to the T-section over and over again… the proverb “running around in circles” suddenly didn’t seem so unreal anymore…

From my online research, I remembered that there were several entrances to the park, and one of them was in Campo Grande. The GPS was still doing a perfect job as map and compass and showing me where we were, and I suggested that the path leading to the left from the T-section might be the one leading to Campo Grande… It was a hunch and the route to Campo Grande was 11,5 km instead of the 8,5 to Jacarépagua, but that would still be better than spending the night in the forest.

This man was on his way home to his chacara in the Pedra Branca forest. He said that we were on the right way out (well, I think that’s what he said) Photo: Mark Eveleigh – http://www.Thewideangle.com

We decided to take that route, although it meant that we didn’t know where (in what kind of neighborhood) in Campo Grande we would end up. Also, from Campo Grande we would have to find transportation back to the car in  Jacarépagua on the other side of the mountains, which would be a 35km bus, van, taxi (whatever) ride… Our plan to get back in Ipanema by 5.00pm went straight down the drain.

This trail was a lot more open, so we had good visibility over the surroundings almost the whole time, which made it easier to navigate. After 1,5 hours we started to see some chacaras, and that was a great thing, because the people living in the chacaras would have to have a road to get to Campo Grande to sell their products.

At a given moment we encountered an old man on a horse making his way up the mountain. I made him stop and asked if we were on the road to Campo Grande… He started saying a lot of things, but because about 95% of his teeth were gone, it wasn’t easy to understand him. We continued on the same trail, which was very tough at some places, making me feel sorry for the horse.

Having a beer and talking to the locals after making it out of the forest… The man next to me is 73 years old, came to Brazil with his father from the island of Madeira when he was 10… Worked in the field his whole life and never learned to read or write.

Eventually the trail turned into a double track road and we ended up in a small bairro of Campo Grande, where we had a cold beer at the first bar we found…

There was a guard at this side of the park as wall, and I asked him to call his colleagues in Jacarépagua to advise them that we were on the other side, but he said that he didn’t have a phone, and even if he would, he didn’t have any contact information of his colleagues. Even though I found that a little strange and very unprofessional, I can’t say I was surprised… After all, this is Brazil, right?

After finishing the beer (which gave me an instant headache – I don’t mix well with alcohol…) we found a bus to take us to the central station in Campo Grande, from where we took a van to Jacarépagua, where we had diner in a very ok restaurant (which I can’t remember the name of) before driving back to Ipanema, where we arrived around 9.30pm…

I checked into the hostel where Mark was staying as well, took a shower, a nap and after a caipirinha on Ipanema beach I went to bed… All in all it had been another fantastic day!!! (right mark? :))

Ouro Preto – 18th century Gold Capital and Cradle of Brazil’s Independence

Few cities in Brazil are as rich in terms of historical, architectural and artistic patrimony as Ouro Preto. This former capital of the state Minas Gerais, formerly called “Vila Rica” (Rich City) had a very important role in the early history of colonial Brazil, and its independence in 1822, when the colony became an empire.

It all began in the late 17th century, when the epic adventure of exploring the interior of Brazil led to the discovery of gold in the region where Ouro Preto would emerge.

The gold rush that followed brought thousands of fortune seekers and adventurersto the region. Various mining settlements were formed, which grew larger and eventually merged in what would become Vila Rica. (1711).

The gold seemed to be in endless supply, and for the colonizer (Portugal) it was a great source of income. No less than 20% (a quinta) of all the gold that originated in and around Vila Rica, but also in all the other regions in the captaincy, went into the treasury of the Portuguese court. On top of the 20%, each mine owner had to pay a fixed amount of gold every year.

The statue of the former revolutionary leader, Joaquin José da Silva Xavier (“Tiradentes”) in the middle of Praça Tiradentes, in the center of Ouro Preto. Tiradentes was executed and had parts of his body exposed along the Estrada Real. In the background to the right of the statue, the former Governor’s Palace, nowadays the School of Mines and Metallurgy .

To control the collection of these taxes, so called “melting houses” (casas de fundição) emerged in Vila Rica, where all the gold had to be taken to be molten into bars bearing the royal seal. The transport of gold in the form of nuggets or dust became prohibited and to prevent smuggling, it also became illegal to open new roads, other than the roads approved by the Court. (Estrada Real)

Vila Rica thus became the financial center of the colony and epicenter of the Estrada Real. Discontentment with the situation led to a first revolt in 1720, which was quickly repressed by the hanging of its leader, Felipe dos Santos. In 1720, Vila Rica also became the capital of the Captaincy of Minas Gerais.

From 1730 to 1760, Ouro Preto had its period of glory. The gold production was at its highest and the city flourished. Several great artists found their way to Ouro Preto and had a great influence in the further development of the city. Baroque and Rococo churches and other buildings, but also schools and theaters were built. In those days Ouro Preto was one of the most culturally developed cities in Brazil.

An example of how the urban layout of Ouro Preto seems to follow the contours of the landscape

Another advantage that was brought on by the gold mining industry, was that the wealthy citizens of Ouro Preto were able to send their sons to Portugal to study and return as lawyers or doctors.

On the other hand, studying in Europe also exposed these more or less isolated Brazilians to the revolutionary ideas and developments in France and North America.Most of them returned to Brazil with the seeds of revolution and independence planted in their minds.

From 1763 on, it was all downhill. Gold mines ran dry and the owners were no longer able to come up with the taxes for the insatiable Portuguese Court. A conspiracy movement, “Inconfidência Mineira” emerged, aiming at the separation from Portugal and the proclamation of independence.

In 1789, most members of the Inconfidência Mineira movement were arrested and its leader, Joaquin José da Silva Xavier (known as “Tiradentes”) was executed in Ro de Janeiro, his body quartered and the pieces exposed in different cities along the Estrada Realto serve as an example. Tiradentes later became one of Brazil’s most famous historical heroes.

Igreja São Fransico de Assis in the center of Ouro Preto. considered to be one of the “seven wonders of the world of Portuguese origin”

With the independence of Brazil in 1822, Vila Rica’s status was elevated to “Imperial City” and its name was changed to Ouro Preto. All was well until in 1897 Belo Horizonte, which was a brand new city, became the new state capital.

Ouro Preto, regarded by the then elite of Minas Gerais as outdated, nearly became a ghost town when almost 50% of its citizens fled to the new and modern capital.

Ironically, it was exactly this development that greatly favored the preservation of the city’s historical, architectural and natural patrimony, which in 1980 was recognized by UNESCO as world heritage centre.

And what a rich patrimony it is… with its 10 Baroque or Rococo churches and 6 chapels, one more beautifully decorated than the next, but also various museums(including the Aleijadinho museum), the countless houses in colonial style and the mostly originally paved streets Ouro Preto has one of the richest collections of colonial art and architecture in Brazil.

Walking around in the (sometimes very steep) cobblestone streets of the historical center is like taking a trip back in time and I highly recommend it. The fact that all this beauty and grandeur was created in what was clearly one of the most rugged landscapes to be found in this part of Brazil, makes this place even more remarkable.

We cannot display this gallery